Adventure: Yosemite National Park
I sat there with tears of gratitude in my eyes. That was the moment it all sunk in. That was the moment I knew I was meant to be there.
I can confidently say there is no place in the world like Yosemite National Park. What other place can make grown men cry (I’m not exaggerating) and weep upon first sight? It’s THAT beautiful.
The first time I ever went to Yosemite was in 2010. Our family friend, Buddy, took my Mom and I there for 2 days as part of our California road trip. We luckily scored last minute reservations at Camp Curry and would end up hiking Nevada Falls/ Mist Trail while there. When we drove through Tunnel View and I got my first glimpse, I was speechless. Looking back, I don’t even think I could appreciate what was right in front of me.
Yosemite would end up becoming an extremely sentimental and special place to me. My first ever hike there would be my Mom’s last after being diagnosed with Multiple Sclerosis. I was scared sh*tless going up those slippery steps toward Nevada Falls because months before this, I watched one of my best friends fall off of a cliff in San Diego from slipping on water. She only came out of it with a bruise or two. Doctors said it was a miracle she survived it with the way she landed. Needless to say, that’s all that played in my mind and I went into FREEZE mode. Luckily, park rangers and Buddy encouraged me that it was easier to go up then down. I would go on to complete it, but remember thinking to myself THIS LIFE AIN’T FOR ME LOL! I never intended on hiking again after that. There’s so much hilarity in typing those words considering it’s one of my greatest joys now.
The next time I would end up in Yosemite was on Valentine’s Day in 2016, after I had gone through my biggest heartbreak in life. Nature was my saving grace during that time and would go on to change my entire existence and life trajectory. I knew whatever I did next after moving away from Los Angeles that it had to do with something in the great outdoors or being in a place that allowed me to continue my new found passion of hiking. While I was in Northern California looking for jobs during that time, I decided to spend two days in Yosemite to reset, recalibrate, and really set intentions of what I wanted to do and where I wanted to go next.
Being in Yosemite was different this time around. I can’t even tell you why, but I felt like (and was) such a different person walking into that park 6 years later. I sat in the snow while looking up at El Capitan knowing this is where I was meant to be and where I would start over to rebuild myself. I could just feel it. Two weeks later, the universe would align me with the perfect people who helped make that a vision a reality. And then two months after that, I would begin one of the greatest adventures of my lifetime and finally call this majestic place my home.
God blessed the broken road that lead me to Yosemite. I still can’t wrap my head around it and the funny ways life works out. I find it’s ALWAYS better than we could imagine or hope for. The big guy upstairs was really looking out for me on this one and knew this chapter was necessary for my growth and healing.
I would end up living and working at the West entrance of the park for the next 1.5 years. I hiked and explored every inch of the Sierra I could from Yosemite Valley to Tioga Road to Hetch Hetchy and everything in between! I believe myself to have covered a lot of ground in that time and would love to share some of my favorites/ must see places in my old home :)
YOSEMITE VALLEY (“THE VALLEY”)
The epicenter of it all! About 90% of visitors spend their time in the Valley when they visit Yosemite. It definitely is a must- see for all first timers.
From top left to bottom right: Half Dome, El Capitan, Mirror Lake, Yosemite Falls, Pretty Path, + Bridalveil Falls
(Cue Coolio voice) As I walk through the (Yosemite) Valley….
Yosemite Valley is what I’d imagine heaven to possibly look like. Mine- at least! Waterfalls, granite cliffs, meadows, and massive oaks and pines. I spent many a day laying on those granite formations looking up in marvel at the endless beauty around me. It is said that rivers and glaciers had carved into the granite to create Yosemite Valley's famous rock formations- with El Capitan and Half Dome being two of the most recognized.
You don’t have to hike to enjoy any of the above pictured views. You can either walk around the Valley or take shuttles that pick you up and drop you off at each viewpoint. It’s extremely easy to get around. There is also rafting on the Merced River, bicycle paths, and rock climbing! Climbers come from all over the world to attempt El Cap. Does “Free Solo” ring a bell?! If not- you should watch the documentary before going! After you see it and then witness the grandeur of this granite in person, your mind will be BLOWN! Pictures and videos don’t do it the slightest bit of justice.
Warning: the traffic was always absolutely insane from April- September. I once sat in 3 hours of stand still traffic in the Valley trying to leave even before it was busy season. The last time I was there in 2021, they had a permit system that was a game changer and helped regulate the amount of tourists. Regardless, I always love going into the park early to soak up the silence and splendor without the swarms of people.
BEST YOSEMITE VALLEY HIKES
1. Nevada Falls/ Mist Trail: my first hike I ever did was on this trail back in 2010. If you have limited time in the Valley, I’d highly recommend this one. It’s classic Yosemite and I feel it really captures the essence of this majestic place.
2. Upper Yosemite Falls: to be able to say I hiked to the top of one of the tallest waterfalls in North America is pretty cool! But this was a challenging one. You are completely exposed to the elements while ascending 3,254 ft in a short distance. My best piece of advice: bring plenty of sunscreen and water and wear a hat. You’ll thank me later.
3. Snowcreek Cabin: this was my first backpacking trip ever! Originally used as a ski hut to support ski mountaineering, Snowcreek Cabin has been around since the 1920’s. Getting here wasn’t easy- at all! Seven- mile, one way trip with 4,000 ft of elevation gain, no marked trail, and then a majority of it covered with snow. You’ll NEED to possess navigational skills to get here. The only reason I made it was because I was with an advanced backpacker who knew the territory. I wouldn’t say this was the most scenic hike in Yosemite, but it was the overall experience that made it special for me. And we also had the cabin to ourselves, which is a rarity with how popular the cabin has become!
A short walk to this vista with breathtaking views of Yosemite Valley.
TUNNEL VIEW
As you start the drive up toward Glacier Point Road and out of Yosemite Valley, you come across Tunnel View. No hiking is required to reach this vista that possesses breathtaking views of the Valley. Located just outside the Wawona Tunnel on State Highway 41.
(Sigh) This place just never disappoints.
GLACIER POINT ROAD
Someone once asked me if I had limited time and had to choose between being down in Yosemite Valley or driving up to the viewpoints/ hikes off of Glacier Point Road and overlooking the park- which one would it be?
From top left to bottom right: Sentinel Dome, Glacier Point, Dewey Point, and Taft Point
The honest answer to that question is that I would make them both a priority. It’s like trying to compare apples and oranges- you can’t. They both give completely different and unparalleled views of Yosemite Valley. Don’t miss either of them! I’d personally visit the Valley first and then head up Glacier Road for sunset.
Fire season + sunsets at Glacier Point Road viewpoints
The drive up Glacier Point Road is 16 miles long and takes approximately 30-40 minutes . It overlooks the Valley, waterfalls, and several of the park’s other landmarks. There are trailheads- for hiking and snowshoeing- along the road that lead to some of the most iconic vista points that I mentioned/pictured above. If you’d really like a challenge and want to beat a crowded parking lot, consider hiking the “Four Mile Trail” from Yosemite Valley up to Glacier Point.
If you are looking for adventure in Yosemite during the winter, visit Badger Pass Ski Area. It is the oldest ski resort in California and is located along GPR. It offers skiing, snowshoeing, cross country,tubing etc. A small, intimate, family friendly resort that is perfect for beginners!
Note: Glacier Point Road is only open when weather permits. Check website for updates!
TIOGA ROAD (HIGHWAY 120/ HIGH COUNTRY)
Tioga Road is where the true Yosemite adventure starts! Don’t get me wrong- you MUST visit Yosemite Valley, especially if it’s your first time. But I’d argue some of the best sights are on this winding drive on Highway 120. There are more hikes on this road than in any other part of the park. And if you are someone like me who always wants to avoid the crowds- GO HERE!
Note: Tioga Road is only open from Summer until early Fall- all snow permitting.
I miss those High Country sunsets.
For those who are not interested in hiking and just want to frolic, chill out, and get the best views without working hard - here are my top 3 recommendations:
1. Tenaya Lake: one of my favorite lakes in the world! I spent many days just hanging around Tenaya in a hammock or paddle boarding.
2. Olmsted Point: a short hike up to Olmsted Point and you get stunning views of Tenaya Lake and the surrounding high country! This is always my first stop when I return to Yosemite.
3. Tuolumne Meadows: I would often walk around Tuolumne Meadows on days I wanted to be immersed in nature, but didn’t want to work hard for a view. Short, sweet, and stunning!
Views of Half Dome from North Dome
This next section is for those who like big mountains and they cannot lie! Even though I loved (almost) every hike I went on in Yosemite, these three were my favorite off of Tioga. They are all on the harder side, but worth every mile!
1. Clouds Rest: this may be my favorite Yosemite hike! Yes- it’s a tough and long day, but just take your time. A lot of my friends who had done Half Dome said this hike was so much better- views and hike!
2. Mt Dana: we did this hike to prepare and acclimate for Mount Whitney. You start Dana at 10,000 ft and end at over 13,000! This trail is very deceiving with many false peaks and the short mileage.
Final stretch of Mount Dana is all boulders. IT WILL BE FUN THEY SAID!
Don’t be fooled by the distance- it really packs a punch! It’s overall challenging with the loose, steep, rocky terrain, especially in the final section. That part is a crap shoot scrambling up those boulders and creating your own path! But those 360 views at the top are worth it!
3. North Dome: one of my favorite backpacking trips! Two of my girlfriends and I backpacked in and spent the night camping at North Dome. I’d say the hike is on the easier-moderate side. I thought the second day going back up was harder then going out, but nothing too bad! Overall, great adventure with epic views of Half Dome and Basket Dome. Also, I highly recommend hitting up the Arch along the way. Another beautiful view!
MORE HAPPY TRAILS ON TIOGA PASS ROAD
Even though these hikes did not make the top 3, here are a few other wonderful hikes I can remember off of the top of my head and recommend. You literally can’t go wrong on Tioga Pass Road!
May Lake and Mount Hoffman
Mono Pass
Sunrise Lakes
Ten Lakes
Lyell Canyon
Lembert Dome
Tuloumne Grove
Cathedral Lakes
Saddlebag Lake/ Twenty Lakes Basin
Tuolumne Grove of Giant Sequoia
END OF THE ROAD: MOBIL GAS STATION
Ok, so this isn’t a hike, but I’d argue it’s an adventure in and of itself LOL! This may be the best gas station I’ve ever been to! And that’s saying a lot as an East Coaster who loves and is loyal to her beloved Wawa.
Mobil is located at the end of Tioga Road and intersection of 395. It was our go-to for food, beers, and gas after we would drive the 3 hours (one way) across Tioga weekly to get to our adventures in the Eastern Sierra. This place has everything and is infamous for Whoa Nellie Deli and their Summer concerts. I’m not sure if they still do those concerts, but they sure were fun! They also had free camping up on the hill overlooking Mono Lake. Some of the best stargazing I’ve ever had!
HETCH HETCHY
Moody days at Hetch Hetchy
Hetch Hetchy is one of Yosemite’s best kept secrets! Located in the Northwestern section of the park with it’s own separate entrance, the grandeur of this hidden gem is comparable to it’s counterpart, Yosemite. Even as a local, I had no idea it existed until my co-workers asked me to join them on an adventure there. I’m sure glad they did!
I won’t go into the history of Hetch Hetchy, but I will say that it is fascinating and definitely worth googling! In the mean time, here are the hikes in the vicinity worth checking out:
Wapama Falls
Rancheria Falls
Lookout Point Trail
Poopenaut Valley
Smith Peak is another hike worth looking into. I never got to complete it, but it is the highest point in that area and has good views- according to my Yosemite friends. They just all came out of it with poison oak LOL! Also, I’ve never backpacked in Hetch Hetchy, but again- my friends loved their experience and highly recommended it! I hope to go back one day and do it.
GROVELAND
I lived in Groveland for the majority of my time in Yosemite. It is a quirky little town that sits 30 minutes outside of the West entrance of the park. It offers good options for food, alcohol, and gear if you’re heading in/out of Yosemite. Not all of the places listed are located in the actual downtown, but all along Highway 120 from Priest Grade to the park. Here are some of my recommendations:
Mountain Sage aka a mountain sanctuary :)!
FOOD
Priest Grade: first restaurant you’ll see coming up the grade toward Groveland. Good food and history! I always loved sitting out on the restaurant’s porch on a nice day!
Mountain Sage: The cutest garden/ coffee shop! I was a daily customer before working here as a barista for a few months. Overall, great coffee and atmosphere!
Tangled Hearts Cafe: my favorite breakfast place! It gets crowded fast and has limited hours.
Cocina Michocana: I’m not sure if the taco truck is still in Groveland, as that is where I’d go if I was craving Mexican food. BUT Cocina is good enough, especially when hiker hanger strikes!
Kevin N Randi’s Old Fashioned Meat Market: I went there twice on my last visit to get sandwiches-to-go for my hikes. Fresh, delicious food!
Mar- Val: the local’s grocery store. Overpriced, as you’d expect in a tourist town, but still offers a generally good selection.
ALCOHOL
Iron Door: What do I even say about this place?! LOL! Oh, the memories and shenanigans here! It is known as the oldest saloon in California and is definitely worth stopping in- even it’s just for a drink!
Around the Horn Brewery: THOSE BEER SLUSHIES GOT ME GOOD! Speaking of good, everything about this place is that. But maybe lets push it one step further and say it’s all great!
Lucky Buck Cafe: this was another place I frequented for their burgers and BIG beer glasses! I have never had a bad meal there!
GEAR
Echo Adventure: love this place! The last time I was in Yosemite in 2021, I stopped here before heading out on a backpacking trip to get last minute things. Great selection of items and very knowledgable staff.
Also, please note: I’m going based off of my experience from living there 2016-2017 and all of my visits leading up until 2021. I cannot guarantee my statements are still 100% accurate about these places. Hopefully they’re still the same…. or even better :)
Happy Trails! xoxo, Brooke