Adventure: New Zealand

There’s no such thing as perfect, but New Zealand is pretty dang close! I loved it so much that I traveled there twice. The first time I went was in 2017 with two of my girlfriends, Becca and Jill. It’s when I was living in Yosemite. We were all at the bar drinking whiskey talking about wanting to go to New Zealand.

“I’ll go if you go.”

“I’ll book it right now.”

“So will I.”

“ Me too!”

Giggle, giggle, giggle.

Those would be our infamous last words, as we all booked our flights right then and there. That’s how that story started and it ended up with NZ completely stealing my heart. 3 weeks wasn’t enough for me and I knew I had to go back. GREEDY….. I KNOW! I’d end up returning solo two years later in 2019. I would spend 4 more weeks there adventuring, camping, and road tripping all around the South Island again.

7 weeks (combined) in NZ and I still don’t even feel I scratched the surface! There’s so much to see and experience, especially for anyone who loves the great outdoors. That was my original draw to the South Island of NZ. It’s known for being the adventure capital of the world. And although I’d love to include every single little thing I did on both of those trips, I’m going to stick to my favorite hikes and scenery. Otherwise, it would take me forever and there’s just too much to say! I also forget a lot of the names, as we’d/ I’d wing most of the adventure. Randomly see a trail sign along the way? COOL! Let’s get lost on it! LOL! My best memories have always come out of spontaneity.

Speaking of memories- let’s just jump into some of my favorites from one of my favorite places in the world!

Moody mornings in Mount Aspiring National Park

WANAKA

I believe some of the best scenery on the South Island was all located in the general Wanaka area.

If you aren’t an avid hiker or just want to sit and chill out, Lake Wanaka is an absolutely gorgeous place! You can sit by the lake, visit the Wanaka Tree, or even kayak. I’ve done all three and 10/10 recommend. There are lots of places to grab food or coffee in downtown Wanaka, as well. It’s a win- win all around!

FRENCH RIDGE HUT | 21.1 mi · 5,180 ft elevation · 6-7 hours up

I did this trek with one of my Yosemite friends who lived in New Zealand, Kyle. We started the hike open to either tackling Liverpool Hut or French Ridge Hut. We wouldn’t decide until we arrived at Aspiring Hut, which was along the way and about 2-3 hours into the actual hike.

When we arrived at Aspiring Hut, I remember eating our snacks and looking at all of the trail information and talking it over with one another. This guy, who I’ll refer to as Chad, decided to chime in.

“French Ridge is easy. You guys need to do that one. You look like you’re in great shape. You’ve got this!”

He gave me a big wink and walked away. LOL! Alrightyyyyyyyyy then, Chad! Kyle and I would collectively decide French Ridge would be the choice even though it would take us longer and be more difficult than the latter. The thought of less people was really appealing to us in that moment.

I’d go on to later learn just how full of crap Chad was. Because if I knew how hard this was going to be, I probably wouldn’t have done it LOL!

The first part of the hike, in the valley, leading up to Aspiring Hut was a literal walk in the park. It would be proceeded by a lot of ups and downs, and a large and deceptively deep river crossing right before arriving at the starting point of the ascent up to French Ridge Hut. After about 8-9 miles in, we finally made it and learned that this is where the true adventure would begin.

Immediately, you are climbing and hauling your body and backpack STRAIGHT UP the side of the mountain. A very steep side of the mountain… might I add…. and holding onto tree roots, branches, and rocks to bolster yourself up. I’d later learn the route was created by climbers, not hikers. AHHHH! The directly up and lack of switchbacks and trail markings all made sense! The only saving grace climbing that section was the shade and shot of bourbon Kyle poured us along the way.

After finally making it to the ridge line and what I thought was almost the top of the mountain, I was surprised to learn we weren’t even close and this was the beginning of another large ascent. SON OF A BISCUIT. We took another shot of bourbon to loosen us up more. Onward and upward we went! This entire section was a little sketchy with the loose rocks and being so close to the edge. I was also feeling delirious at this point, as I was spent and it was getting dark out real fast. I was worried about making any wrong move. It would end up taking an hour plus from that point to get to our final destination.

Little ol’ me on top of a little ol’ mountain!

I can’t even describe how I felt when I saw the little red hut peaking out, as I approached the top. We just made it before the sun completely set. The hut was bigger than I imagined and the sleeping area resembled a dorm room. There were about 20 beds with mats on them in there. Luckily, there was only one other person in there with us that night. We would proceed to wipe ourselves down with water and wipes before sitting at the kitchen table for the steak and potatoes that Kyle carried up and cooked! We added a little whiskey night cap to the mix and all was good in the world!

You can only wake me up early under two conditions: the views and brews (coffee- in this case) are ENDLESS!

The next morning was the best part of it. I’d wake up to coffee brewing and look out the window to see the sun setting over the glacier. I immediately grabbed my brew and walked outside to marvel at my surroundings. I still don’t have the words for the beauty I witnessed. But I do know that I will never, ever, ever forget it for as long as I live.

What goes up, must come down. And boy, did we have a LONG way down. It started pouring rain as soon as we made our descent and every step had to be extremely calculated. It was already super slippery coming up the mountain the previous day and now the relentless rainfall made it even harder. I have never had to give myself so many pep talks, as I would on this hike. It was never- ending.

I remember mentioning to Kyle that I really wanted to see a rainbow and how that would be the icing on the cake of everything we experienced. Rainbows are very symbolic to me and I just love seeing them on/ in my journeys. Shortly after saying that, we reached the end of the bush line- where I stopped to catch my breath and just take in the surrounding valley below us. Suddenly, a rainbow magically appeared out of the sky! Talk about perfect timing, as if I had gotten there a minute before or after- I would’ve never seen it. It appeared just as fast as it disappeared! Regardless, it made my day and gave me more pep in my step continuing down those rocks and roots. I can’t remember how long it actually took us to get back to the car, but it felt like forever. I have never felt so happy to be done a hike. We went straight to downtown Wanaka to consume big beers and big meals after our big adventure!

ROY’S PEAK | 10.1 mi · 4,297 ft elevation · 5-6 hours

If you go to NZ, you have to hike Roy’s Peak. HAVE TO! This is one of the most popular day hikes in NZ and for good reason. I decided to go later in the day, as I heard the car lot gets full fast. Also, the weather was hot when I was there. Even though I started in the afternoon, it still was pretty brutal and exposed. I can’t imagine doing it any earlier!

The trail is switchback after switchback with panoramic views of Wanaka Lake and surrounding peaks nearby the entire way up. It is very steep! The higher you get on the trail, the prettier the views get. Once the trail levels out, you walk through farmland and grasslands to the summit.

This was one of my most memorable hikes in NZ. I met some friends on trail and we all ended up hanging on the summit together chit chatting. Before we knew it, the sun was setting and we had to start our way back down. Only two of us had lights (on our phones) and we all had to stay very close together so we wouldn’t eat it hiking in the dark LOL! But we were treated to starry skies guiding us on our entire descent. Just glorious!

ROB ROY | 6.4 mi · 1,548 elevation · 3-4 hours

If you like alpine landscape, glaciers, sheer rock cliffs, and waterfalls- then this is a must do! It was a rainy, slippery day when I did Rob Roy, but it still was so good! You start the beginning of this hike across a swing bridge and then head up through a small gorge into a beech forest. You continue into alpine vegetation and shortly after get your first glimpses of Rob Roy Glacier! Don’t stop there though or you’ll miss some of the best views of the glacier and waterfalls galore!

Note: Gravel road out to this hike wasn’t the best when I was there! You have a few fjords to cross so make sure you have a good car!

AORAKI/ MOUNT COOK

What do I even say about this heavenly, alpine region? It was easily one of my favorite areas in this country and also one of the most breathtaking. VIEWS FOR DAYS!

Aoraki/ Mount Cook is home to the highest peak in NZ. The landscape is rugged and full of rock and ice. And Lake Tekapo? I’ve NEVER seen a lake that brilliant of a turquoise and so easy to access! Usually, I’ve had to backpack and work really hard to see lakes as stunning as Tekapo!

I highly recommend camping at Mount Cook. It was one of the best spots I’ve ever stargazed and a perfect starting point for venturing out and exploring this area. The parking lot fills up very fast here, as it’s a very popular place. Not having that extra worry was a plus!

HOOKER LAKE VIA HOOKER VALLEY TRACK | 6.8 mi · 646 elevation · 2.5 hours

One of the best views in NZ with a low effort to pay-off ratio. This trail is a mostly flat, well-maintained walkway that crosses three swing branches. It is completely exposed with epic views along the way! The final stretch takes you to a stone landing at Mueller Lake Lookout with picnic tables and plenty of room to hang out. When we did this hike, there was a girl sitting there and playing her ukelele. It felt like a scene out of a movie!

Note: Go early, as this hike gets really crowded. Like I mentioned above, we luckily started all of our adventures in the Aoraki/ Mount Cook area from our camp spot and didn’t have to worry about the parking. If you can camp, do so and save yourself the hassle. But if not- prepare accordingly! This is a very popular hike for a reason!

TASMAN GLACIER VIEW TRACK | .8 mi · 269 elevation · 30-40 min

We added this quick and easy hike onto the itinerary the same day we did the Hooker Valley track. It’s only a hop, skip, and jump away from an overlook that offers stunning views of the Tasman Glacier, which is New Zealand’s longest glacier, and Aoraki Mount Cook and the Southern Alps.

ABEL TASMAN

Abel Tasman is a coastal paradise! It is reknowned for its sandy golden beaches and granite cliffs and feels like a completely different part of the South Island. It was nice to switch it up from my normal mountain summit seeking adventures.

I explored a few hiking trails while in the area, but a majority of my time (both years) was spent on the sea kayaking. That’s how much I loved it and being out on the crystal blue waters of the Abel Tasman Sea! I was able to venture out to the beaches, coves, offshore islands, and see all of the wildlife- on and off the coastline. I also did SEALfies (La-hoo-sa-her!) with the seals and repeatedly ate at Fat Tui- a delicious food truck nearby. That place took all of my money and my soul!

MILFORD SOUND

Milford Sound is often called the "eighth wonder of the world." This fiord is an absolute must see!

The journey on the stunning alpine drive from Te Aneu was just as impressive as the final destination. There are so many view points along the way and you just can’t skip past them! The first taste and glimpse of Milford did not disappoint. It was absolutely breathtaking and a place of true natural wonder: cliffs, mountainous peaks, and waterfalls galore! We opted to walk around instead of taking the cruise, as the tour company we met with said Doubtful Sound was the better option.

KEY SUMMIT AND VIEW OF LAKE MARIAN VIA ROUTEBURN TRACK | 5 mi · 1,381 ft elevation

We spontaneously added this hike into our itinerary last minute when we were leaving Milford Sound and heading back to town in Te Aneau. It is a very well- maintained trail that starts through a mossy green forest and gently ascends up the mountain toward the viewpoint. Pretty easy and straight forward with only a few sections that have loose rocks. The summit offered 360 views and had benches to hang out on, eat, or nap! I would’ve liked to have started this earlier, as it was very crowded, but it was still worth doing.

DOUBTFUL SOUND

The second largest fiord in the park (and one of NZ’s most remote!) and 3x longer than Milford Sound. There isn’t a direct road to Doubtful Sound and it requires a ferry across Lake Manapouri to get here. You are treated to views of completely untouched nature (towering peaks, waterfalls, pristine waterways) and abundant wildlife (dolphins, seals, and penguins) while cruising the lake. We only did the 3 hour tour, but they offer overnight/ multi-day cruise. An overall serene and peaceful memory, despite the wild winds on board!

BEN LOMMOND | 6.7 mi · 3,313 elevation · 6-8 hours

The first time I tried attempting this hike was with my two girlfriends in 2017. A storm came in mid-way through the and we had to turn around and go back down. I was determined to come back and finish it… and did so two years later! Man, it was a hot one the day I hiked it and I got FRIED, as the trail is all completely exposed ! DO NOT FORGET YOUR SUNSCREEN AND WATER, KIDS! The sun in NZ is no joke!

I camped at Queenstown Top 10 Holiday Park the night before so that I could just hike up from there and start the hike below the gondola. It’s a steep and steady climb the entire way up the mountain. And when you reach the saddle, it gets even tougher and steeper! You are treated to panoramic views of Queenstown and surrounding mountain ranges when you finally reach the summit! I couldn’t stay up there long as it was super windy, but I met some great people from around the world and we ended up all hiking back down the trail together and going out to eat in Queenstown after!

GLENORCHY

I saved the best for last. Ahhhhhh, Glenorchy! You blissful piece of heaven- you!

Glenorchy was my favorite town on the South Island of NZ. I got my first dose of it in 2017 and I couldn’t get over how a place could be so incredibly charming, yet beautiful.

When I went back in 2019, I spent over a week here. I camped out the entire time and would venture out on hikes, aimlessly drive around the area to find views for brews, and hit up the local coffee shop for slow mornings of coffee, writing, and copious handfuls of dark chocolate! I even got to take a boat out to the nearby island and camp/party with new friends! I’ve had nothing, but an absolutely positive experience in this place every single second, minute, and day I spent there. I can’t wait until the next time I go back!

OTHER MUST SEE DO TOWNS + HIKES

Grandview Mountain
Bonnie Jean Hut
Diamond Lake and Rocky Mountain Track
Lake Hayes Walkway
Abel Tasman Coast Track
Wainui Falls Track
Hokitika Gorge Walk
Hokitika Beach
Blue Lagoon
Lake Matheson Walk
Moke Lake (great camp spot!)
Kaikora (year round whales!)
Tekapo Springs
He Puna Taimona Hot Pools
Puzzling World (random stop, but SO fun!)
Great Walks of NZ (I did not get to do any of the full treks, but did complete small sections of Routebourn and Kepler Track!)

Happy Trails! xoxo, Brooke

Review: Blogger beginnings and beyond!

Adventure: Yosemite National Park