Adventure | Patagonia | O Circuit Day 3 +4
Monday, March 6: Serón to Dickson
What I thought would be an early bed time and a good night’s rest did not turn out quite like I intended. I didn’t sleep AT ALL and definitely woke up on the wrong side of the sleeping pad. I’m a light sleeper and there was a girl who sounded like Pumba next to me, who may have arguably been the loudest snorer I’ve ever heard. Even my headphones couldn’t drown her out and her snoring echoed with Fleetwood Mac. I was secretly wishing all night that a twister would sweep up her tent and send her to another part of the park. Why God, why? LOL! I felt better overhearing other girls say the same thing when we were cleaning up our campsites the next morning.
Speaking of morning, I was up very early this day and just decided to walk around Seron before heading on toward my next destination: Dickson. On the bright side of getting no sleep, THE SUN WAS FINALLY OUT! I was flying high. Imagine Fall- like weather with a light brisk. It was glorious! But not even 10 minutes into starting the trail, the rain decided to come back and play.
RAIN, RAIN….GO AWAY!!!!!!
This entire section would take 6 hours to complete, have an elevation gain of 1,181 ft, and would alternate between drizzling and down-pouring the entire 11+ miles. I really enjoyed how moody the rain made everything around me look! The beginning of the trail started off with relatively flat and easy, rolling terrain. It wasn’t until about an hour in that I would start my first ascent uphill with views of Paine Lake and the surrounding cloud covered mountains beside me, as well as in front of me. The elevation gain wasn’t anything too strenuous, but definitely more challenging than the day before. As the trail began to descend, I decided I wanted to pick up my pace and put on my “GET IT!” mix (think Nelly,Luda, 2000’s Rap) to get moving faster to my lunch spot at Coiron.
After lunch, I followed the river upstream along grassy meadows and marshy lands. This area was super muddy, but it was also super special to me. I think it was because this was the first time I felt like I was beginning to go off the beaten path. Everything leading up until that moment felt commercialized and there were just too many people around for my liking. And now, we were finally in what I felt was the back section of the park and the only people around were the ones who were tackling the O Circuit, as well.
The more I descended toward Dickson, the more the weather calmed down- both the rain and the winds that would ruthlessly appear out of nowhere. The final part of the hike had one last small climb. Over that hill, you would catch your first glance of the serene and stunning Dickson and it’s glacier.
My first view of Dickson- my final destination of the day and campsite! WOWOWOWOWWOW!
I have to say that Dickson was probably my favorite campsite on trail. I will never forget the first glance of it coming over the hill! Everything was just so vivid and contrasted by the mountain peaks and lakes surrounding it. My only regret was not walking to the shores of the campsite. I had spent my time just chilling and talking to other hikers. And before I knew it, it was too dark to go. I was definitely sad to leave this place, but knew this section of the trail was only about to get better.
Tuesday, March 7: Dickson to Los Perros
HELLOOOOOOOOOOOOO, SUNSHINE! Maybe it was good luck because March 7 is my Mom’s birthday, but this would be our first FULL DAY of sun since arriving in South America. I was beyond ecstatic. I really took my time on this section of the hike and took plenty of stops along the way. It was only 7.6 miles to my next campsite, Los Perros, with no major slopes and an elevation gain of 1,750. I’m so glad that I didn’t rush because at those stops I would end up meeting all of my favorite trail friends from the O Circuit! We’d end up hanging out later on trail, back in town in Puerto Natales, and even go on to travel back to South America together one year later (this year!) to hike the Salkantay Trek!
Sunrise at Dickson.
This hiking day started with big smiles, plentiful shade, and climbing through an old lenga forest. After an initial small ascent and winding through dense woodlands, it opened up into a much taller lenga forest. Some claim the section that lied ahead was the wildest and most remote part from the circuit, which I could definitely see that statement being accurate. The only thing I could hear aside from my own footsteps and other hiker’s were the raging waters of the Rio de los Perros. (Insert exploding heart here.) Ah! True peace and solitude :)
Beech forests, mountains, waterfalls, and lush vegetation were never too far out of sight this day, as I continued hiking along the Los Perros river once out of the forest. I spent my time frolicking and really soaking it all in. I’d randomly stop along the trail just to sit down and eat chocolate on multiple tree logs just because I could. Also, because the blue sunny skies were making me so happy! LOL! #simplethingsinlife
Toward the final section of the route, I crossed the Los Perros river via a suspension bridge and shortly arrived at the base of another terminal moraine: Los Perros Glacier. I’m not sure how I missed this in all of my research prior to the trip, but this grand finale view came as a complete surprise! Because of the slope, I did not get to see what was in front of me until I ascended the moraine of the glacial lake and was suddenly treated to the most magical view of the glacier!
After checking out the glacier, I would then make the short walk to the extremely isolated Los Perros- my campsite for the night. As soon as I checked in, I was warned that I had to be up for breakfast at 6am and leave the campsite to start the hike up John Gardner pass by 7am. NO EXCEPTIONS. John Gardner Pass is the section that everyone is warned about beforehand. You do NOT want to get caught going up and over in a storm for obvious reasons. I’ve mentioned a lot how fast the weather changes in Patagonia and this pass is even more extreme. There were horror stories I heard of people getting caught in winter storms and those who had to turn around and backtrack to the beginning of the trail. NO, THANK YOU!
The Journey Continues
In the next blog post, I will cover Day 5: Los Perros to Grey and the infamous John Gardner Pass. Stay tuned!
Happy Trails! xoxo, Brooke
